Mostly Cult Wines At L28 (May 6, 2019)

Martin Mullen, Mosel, Krover Steffensberg, Riesling Spatlese** Trocken, 2017

Not only have I never heard of Martin Mullen, I've never even heard of the village of Krov. I understand he's somewhat of a cult favorite, although his fame is still small and young enough to keep prices sane. It also helps that I'm not the only one who's never heard of the Krov vineyards. This is dry enough to deserve the trocken label, but not enough to lose the Mosel balance and edgy, tasty raciness, and it shows flowers, apples and generous minerals.

00 Wines, VGR, Oregon, Williamette Valley, Pinot Noir, 2015

Another cult producer, an expensive one this time, specializing in Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, quelle surprise. The VGR (Very Good Red, I shit you not) shows ripeness and sweetness that you can't get in Burgundy without loss of form and focus. I mention that because the wonder here is how well form and focus are preserved. A clean, clear wine, the aromatics are quite complex, showing exotic spices.

Leo Alzinger, Wachau, Loibenberg, Smaragd, 2012

And now, for the first time in about eight years, I'm out of Austrian wines. I wish the (hopefully temporary) swan song was more auspicious, because despite complex, mineral-tinged aromatics and a tasty sweet-spicy finish, the form and mid-palate lack the convincing depth and easy finesse of the other Alzinger wines I've had.

Shvo, Chenin Blanc, 2011

Gaby Sadan's red and Sauvignon Blancs are consistently excellent, the 'Greshon' cuvee even inspirational, but I rarely enjoy his Chenin when I drink a young bottle and this is so middle aged and flat that I wouldn't risk aging it, either.

Adelsheim, Williamette Valley, Pinot Noir, 2013

The 2015 I drank last  month was tasty and very good, but this is a decrepit bottle that I hope is not indicative of, well, anything.

J. L. Chave, Saint Joseph, 2012

A sexy wine, not profound, though, the plump fruit obscuring the savoriness I look for in North Rhone Syrah. The nose, though, black and blue fruit with splashes of black pepper and coffee grains, is lovely and, its worth repeating myself, sexy.