Nono Take II (Feb. 2, 2015)

And there I was, thinking life couldn't get any better after staying up all night to witness Tom Brady win his fourth Superbowl ring, thirteen years after incredulously watching him drive the Patriots towards an upset over the St. Louis Rams.

Well, it didn't. But an evening with friends at Nono, enjoying, among other things, a Grosses Gewaches and a Barton mini-flight, was a good way to come down to earth.

Rebholz, Pfalz, Chardonnay, "S" Trocken, 2010

While I recalling enjoying a previous vintage in the past, this won't replace Puligny or Chassagne, maybe Meursault. It's vaguely Pinot Gris or Semillon-like in the way it sports floral trappings alongside pears and apples, and somewhat sweet, yet high in acidity for a Chardonnay. Baffling.

Schafer-Frohlich, Nahe, Schlossbuckelheimer Felsenberg, Grosses Gewaches, 2007

The Other Germany. Apples and chalk and assorted minerals combine for a regal explosion. Very complex and continually expanding in glass. This is in a very good spot.

Pierre Marey, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, 2011

Oaky and spicy. Interesting nose, annoying palate. I think few things are as deeply annoying as a mediocre white Burgundy. And this is actually downright bad.

G. D. Vajra, Barolo,Luigi Baudana, 2006

Typical tarry/spicy nose, with red fruit on both nose and palate. Still young and dourly brazen but I take to it. Very good.

Two siblings, separated by the usual French history of trading chateaus
Château Leoville-Poyferre, Saint Julien 2me Cru, 2001

Oh, what a lovely stink. Brett in spots, mellow black fruit and light cedar all over the place. If the Barolo was like being a Catholic - suffer now but enjoy the afterlife - here the party has already started and will continue for a long time.

Château Leoville-Barton, Saint Julien 2me Cru, 2001

The Poyferre sans brett. I like them both, but for me the Barton might be arguably better, even if less approachable.

Ferrer Bobet, Priorat, Vinyes Velles, 2010

Black yet grapey fruit. Not too modern, kinky enough personality-wise to make up for the ripe fruit. I enjoyed my glass without a great urge for seconds.

Chateau de Fargues, Sauternes, 2003

Like a lot of 2003 Sauternes, this is a heavy loaf of cheesecake. Tasty but plodding