Friday, February 20, 2015
With Lifshitz and Friends @Popina (Jan. 5, 2015)
Dominique Laurent, Nuits-St.-Georges Premier Cru, Les Bousselots, 1999
Dominique Laurent is a proponent of intensive barrel use and it shows. Over fourteen years post harvest, the forest floor aromas on the nose are accompanied by notes of oak aromas, and I think the barrel regime also contributes to the drying tannins on the finish.
Domaine Bizot, Bourgogne, Chapitre, 2011
Here the balance between red fruit and forest floor on the nose is much better gauged. Much better. The tannins are present, yet refined in the soft rasping way fine Burgundies bring to the table. Placed in the decanter for an hour after the initial sips, it emerges with flowers and exotic spices. Very tasty and savory. Almost intoxicating and always changing. As always, this is way better than any Bourgogne has a right to be, Premier Cru level in fact.
Domaine Mongeard-Mugneret, Clos de Vogeot, 1998
Lightly liquorish nose, with refined, yet warm fruit and spices. Very, very tasty and complex with savory acidity. Lovely, lovely, lovely - obviously mature but at the same time still quite fresh. Oh so much better than a bottle three years ago.
Jean Grivot, Nuits-St.-Georges Premier Cru, Aux Boudots, 2006
Raw meat at first, which for me is strange in a Bourgogne. But initially it works, with a hint of flowers and minerals, and settles into a very complex portrait, with more weight than the Clos de Vogeot shows. Then it abruptly closes and throws up oaky aromas. Thumbs down at this stage of its evolution.
Domaine Matrot, Meursault-Blagny Premier Cru, 2011
Starts out with aromas of Atlantic salt and pears, with flint coming out later. Despite it's youth, already complex and mellow, especially after a short detour in the decanter, with baby fat counter-pointed by welcome salinity.