Koehler-Ruprecht, Kalstadter Saumagen, Riesling Auslese, 2001 (Oct. 16, 2007)

Arguably one of the greatest producers in Pfalz, from what is acknowledged as his greatest vineyard and a vintage hailed as Germany's greatest in recent years... Oddly enough, the first non-dry wine I've tasted from Koehler-Ruprecht.

A fine example of pubescent German Riesling, it's almost profane to call it a sexy wine but it is, with plump fruit over a backbone of crispy acidity and such harmonic sweetness it's tempting forget dry wines forever. The nose - lime, peaches, apples and chalk - is not powerful per se though it's so aromatic you can smell it from feet away. At first, it doesn't have quite the nuances the 2004 Kabinetts are already showing, though they do come after a couple of hours, and anyway right now the real story's on the palate, where the fruit, acidity and sugar really carry the finish and aftertaste a long way, revealing layers of quinie and spices, even hints of strawberries as the wine opens. It's elegant and airy on the attack but really dense beneath that.

We'll meet again in a decade, my friend, I promise you that.

Imported by Giaconda, 166 NIS for club members.