Chateau Palmer, Margaux 3me Cru, 1995
A very persuasive nose, of good complexity, notes of balsam wood and hints of earth. The tannins are very integrated by now, providing nonobtrusive structure and a slightly sandy texture. The finish is long but not aggressive, persistent with meaty/saucy aftertaste. It's a complex and elegant wine, and it's always great to drink a mature Bordeaux, but is it thrilling or especially deep? I'm afraid not - as wine critics used to score Bordeaux, this would be 91 on a generous day.
Hermann Ludes, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Thornicker Ritsch, Riesling Auslese, 1995
I've had this bottle for a few months and I always looked upon it with a suspicious eye, as the fill was very low. Furthermore, the cork dropped. Still, the wine itself was in excellent shape. The nose shows petrol, but it doesn't overwhelm the peach notes. The palate is very focused, showing minerals, apples, lemon drops. The long finish is just as salty/sour as it is sweet.
Alain Graillot, Crozes-Hermitage, 2017
Of this roundup, this was my favorite, certainly my favorite red. I've been drinking Graillot since my Year One in wine, and so far, only the 2002 disappointed (objectively, but, of course, not in the context of that terrible year). The Graillot family make the best Crozes-Hermitage I've tasted. I've seen people peg the more expensive La Guiraude as a Cote-Rotie in a blind tasting. The regular is just the best Crozes that you wouldn't mistake for a more noble appellation. It would mess you up in a blind tasting because it would outshine your expectations of Crozes, without giving you a reason to go to Cote-Rotie or Saint Joseph, let alone Hermitage or Cornas.
It needs time, even at the age of five. The nose is interesting right from the start: black forest fruit, olive brine, black pepper, a hints of melting bacon fat. I won't talk about the evolution of the palate, just recommend you open and pour, then give it an hour or two. You'll then get sensual, fresh, succulent fruit and tannins that are not too rusty, just firm enough to squeeze the fruit.
They used to call these wines Bourgogne-like. I think it's because their sense of balance and lithe femininity show a kinship with mature red Burgundies.
Giacosa Fratelli, Barolo, 2016
A middleweight, elegant, not very complex. Rose petals and band aid on the nose. Savory, salty finish. Good for the price, but better producers have better Langhes at this price.
Alberto Orte, Valdeorras, A Portela, 2015
A Mencia from Valdeorras, a hilly area in eastern Galicia, better known for its white Godello. This easily convinces of the versatility of the grape. I actually find it more interesting and unique than more expensive examples. Part of that is due to the age of the wine. A seven year old red selling for 99 NIS is a bargain, right off the bat. The nose strikes a balance between flowers and roasted herbs, while the palate finds a balance of its own - soft tannins, integrated acidity, a silky texture and a long, flavorsome finish.
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