Staff stability has never been Midbar Winery's strong suit, marring owners' dream of showcasing the Negev's terroir. Yiftach Lustig took over as winemaker about a year ago and Yotam Sharon consults. They're both good friends - Yotam is one of my favorite people ever - so objectivity did not come easy. On the other hand, I hope I didn't bend backwards too much. I'll give you the highlights. Buy the Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir and try them in a few months. Give the Viognier a chance.
Yaacov Oryah introduced this as an unoaked Chardonnay. It never worked for me. I think Chardonnay can always use a mild helping of barrel time, for the effects of barrel again, not to acquire the taste of oak. The big change that Yiftach Lustig made was to introduce a version matured in new and used barrels. The results show the green apples typical of a young Chardonnay, with floral and chalky brandishes. Like Sphera's Chardonnay (always a good benchmark), it is a very clear wine, with a salty aftertaste. Yiftach says he had to work hard to get it right and 1. he got it right and 2. the effort shows as a somewhat chunky form. (Nov. 5 and 10, 2020)
Cabernet Sauvignon, 2019
Originally, when Midbar was still a rebranding of Yaacov Oryah's Assif winery, it focused primarily on whites. There were a few reds, but I don't remember a Cabernet. There might have been one that I missed, but I just don't see a Cab as fitting in with Yaacov's plans at that time (or ever). This is very correct and understated, and not just in Israeli terms - it defies the notion of a warm weather Cabernet from any country. It's fruity and very balanced, with just a hint of minerals. It's a tasty wine, and while I don't really need to stock up on any more Israeli Cabs (even really drinkable ones, such as this), it's a good restaurant choice. (Nov. 14, 2020)
Pinot Noir, 2019
Somewhere in the flux of winemakers, a Pinot Noir was introduced. The 2018, which was still work in progress when Yiftach took over, was very good. It highlighted Pinot's sheer fruity side, less so its ability to reflect terroir in nuance strokes of minerals, spices and flowers, and, while well formed and moreish, didn't develop a whole lot with air. This is very similar in style and character, at first, but takes a step beyond sheer fruitiness after a couple of hours, to show strawberry preserve, pine needles and spices. There's more to come from it once it emerges from its fruity stage and, even though it's not one for long term aging, I would experiment with a couple of years of cellaring. (Nov. 17, 2020)
Viognier, 2019
Never a grape I pursue, nonetheless, this wine escapes the usual faults of the grape and is very racy with a tasty, salty finish. I'm never sure what to say when someone does a good job with a grape I don't like. I don't like Viognier's plaintive, floral scents and it's hard to get any depth from it without encouraging high ABV. Nonetheless, this is a good job and reminds me of a fine Albarinho. I'll keep an eye out for it in future vintages. In fact, if more people are turning out Viogniers like this, I might entertain a change of heart about the grape. (Nov. 23, 2020)
Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc, 2019
If Midbar has any legacy wines, they are the Semillon and Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc wines that Yacov introduced when he started the winery as Assif. Interestingly enough, the 2019 is much in the same style as its older siblings from a decade ago, a bracing, racy, lithe wine, combining melons and minerals. A tasty wine poised for its new daddy to take it to the next level. (Dec. 22, 2020)
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